Būka River – Lakes – Žeimena River (to Švenčionėliai)
You’ll visit the 7 islands of Lake Baluošas, the famous Šuminai village, wash in the stream of Ginučiai water mill, and visit the ancient Palūšė church with its bell tower. You can climb Puziniškis mound. You’ll also pass through the Žeimena ichthyological reserve, Labanoras regional park, and historical Švenčionėliai.
10.00 – 20.00 €
- ~ 19.4 hours
- ~ 58.2 km
Inquire and book canoes
First day's route (~21 km; ~8 hours): From Būka River to Lake Linkmenas
Second day's route (~16 km; ~5 hours): From Lake Linkmenas to Lake Žeimenai
Third day's route (~23 km; ~8 hours): From Lake Žeimenai to Švenčionėliai via the Žeimena River
First day’s route
Būka – Lake Linkmenas (~21 km, ~8 hours)
After jumping into the canoes on Lake Utenykštis, paddle a few hundred meters keeping to the right side of the shoreline to bypass the Utenykštis lake cape. Continue keeping to the right bank, paddle through the Lašmens strait, known for its rich marsh flora. After overcoming the marsh reeds, you’ll cross the strait and continue your journey on the Būka River. During the trip, you can rest in ethnographic areas and campsites set up along the river. The banks of Būka are bordered by forested woods, enriching its waters. On your left, in the direction of your paddle, is the Ažvinčiai forest, and on the right, the Vyžiai forest. So, paddling this river, you’ll not only get acquainted with the rich flora and fauna of the rivers but also confirm that the Būka River is one of the cleanest rivers in Lithuania!
In the past, the Būka River was used for log rafting. You know that the river’s water level changes in certain areas, so the water level was artificially raised to ensure optimal log transportation. You’ll find remnants of wooden dams during your journey!
About a kilometer from the start of your journey (from the Būka’s source at Utenykštis), you’ll reach the Ineiga rest area. Here you can take a break after the start. But don’t linger too long, as the journey has just begun!
You might encounter Water Lily families while paddling. Water Lilies are included in the Red Book, so please act responsibly – do not pick or harm them! If you like to pick plants as souvenirs, look around and pick Water Mint hidden among the reeds on the riverbanks. Their flowers are not only beautiful – at the end of the trip, you can brew delicious mint tea for yourself and your travel companions!
Soon you’ll notice the village of Vaišnoriškės, recognizable by the XIX – XX century style of the residents’ buildings, from whose yards wooden piers and small bridges stretch out into the river. Bypassing the piers, you’ll pass a small bridge necessary to extend the Tauragnai township. and the Braslavas township road. Next to that small bridge on your left, notice the ethnographic area: once there stood an inn, mentioned since 1765. The first homestead in this area was established in 1830. Later, four more were built.
After passing the mentioned Vaišnoriškės and the road bridge, the Būka narrows and becomes winding. This section of the Būka River is characterized by some deep spots and a more intense current. And, of course, how could there not be fallen trees across the river? You’ll find more than one, so you may need to carry some canoes over logs or on land along the riverbanks. Remember, a wet tree is slippery, the riverbed is not always even, and the current can disrupt balance. Be coordinated, unless you want to take a dip in the swift waters of Būka. J
Note that the river sometimes has bays that look like branches of the river. You’ll recognize the true riverbed by paying attention to the current – the free flow of water and the movement of plants.
And so, you’ve completed your journey on the Būka River. Its conclusion is adorned by the Baluošas Lake, rich with seven islands, which you’re now entering. The silence of Baluošas Lake is maintained by pine forests, whose resinous scents you probably already smell. Upon entering Baluošas, keep to the right side and you’ll find the Adomragis rest area. Here, refresh yourself, as a diverse range of Aukštaitija waters awaits you until the Almajas campsite!
At the Adomragis rest area, especially at the tip of the promontory, there is a clear and convenient shore inviting you to swim. It’s a great place for a dip, but not for leaving trash: be kind to nature and don’t leave litter, as there are no bins here. You’ll dispose of it in a container at the Almajas campsite, but until then, collect trash in your canoe’s bag.
So, after snacking and resting, it’s time to decide which direction to paddle. It depends on your strength and remaining supplies.
THERE ARE 2 OPTIONS TO CROSS BALUOŠAS LAKE:
First option (~1.5 km, ~20 min) – paddle straight from Adomragis campsite to the stream connecting Lake Baluošas and Lake Baluošykštis. It’s about 1.5 km or 15-20 minutes of paddling. For this direction, head towards the opposite shore of the lake. On the left should be Liepų Island, and on the right, a peninsula called Beržaragis. From the Beržaragis peninsula, you’ll see a bridge under which the stream connecting the lakes flows.
Second option (~4.5 km; up to ~1.5 hours) – explore the natural wonders of Baluošas Lake by visiting Ilgasalė Island. It’s a unique hydrographic formation in Lithuania, as Ilgasalė is the only island in Lithuanian lakes with a small lake on it.
To visit the most beautiful spots of Lake Baluošas (if you chose the second option), paddle from the Adomragis campsite along the left bank of Baluošas. Soon you’ll see the ethnographic village of Šuminai, first mentioned in historical sources in 1784. Under the name Pabaluošė. In this village, there is a pine tree about 300 years old. However, the pine tree does not make Šuminai village famous as much as the historical fact that in 1972, the famous Lithuanian film “Tadas Blinda” was filmed here, and every resident of Šuminai village will show you the “Tadas Blinda villa” standing here.
Leaving Šuminai village, paddle past Degėsio Island towards the last and longest island of Baluošas Lake – Ilgasalė. Reaching the southeastern end of Ilgasalė, paddle into the bay, where you can find a stream through gaps in the vegetation and enter with your canoes.
After paddling back from the small lake of Ilgasalė, return to the same place and direction you paddled from Šuminai village, then turning the canoes to the left, travel southeast, keeping to the Baluošas shoreline. Paddling in the distance, you’ll see a cape. After rounding the cape, if you still have time and energy, you can briefly enter a bay and visit Trainiškis village, visiting Trainiškis’ landmark – an 800-year-old oak, which fell to the ground due to a strong storm in 2016. Since then, visitors can view not only the trunk of this historical tree but also its top!
When leaving Trainiškis bay, on the left side, you’ll see another small cape. From it, paddle straight towards another, larger cape visible in the distance. After rounding it and always keeping to the left shoreline, you’ll enter the large Baluošas bay, at the end of which you’ll see a stream about 150 m long, connecting Lake Baluošas with the small lake Baluošykštis. This swift stream will carry you into another adventure-filled lake area.
Paddle along Baluošykštis until you reach the lake’s outlet, leaving Simoniškis village on the left and Vaidžiškiai village on the right. After crossing the lake, slightly to the left, among the reeds, you’ll notice the source of the Skriogžlė stream.
Skriogžlė is about 0.9 km long. Skriogžlė may seem like a narrow and deep river with several sharp bends. The banks of this river are covered with trees, making the river slopes quite steep. Storms have knocked several trees into the river, but you can overcome them by jumping with your canoe if you gain enough speed. After a few more bends, you’ll enter Lake Sravinaitis.
In Lake Sravinaitis, keep to the right shoreline until you reach an island shaped like a promontory. Bypass it on the left (the island will remain on the right), and you’ll reach the famous Ginučiai watermill.
The Ginučiai mill operated until 1968. A decade later, it was restored. Now the mill is declared a state-protected 19th-century technical monument. It houses a museum where you can see authentic old mill equipment. The mill museum is open from May to October (Tuesday to Saturday 10 am – 6 pm, Sundays 10 am – 3 pm).
Disembark on the right side of the watermill dam and carry your canoes over the dam. Don’t miss the great opportunity to swim in the water stream falling from the dam’s trough!
After splashing in the strong stream of the water mill, you’ll get into the transferred canoes and continue paddling on the Srovė River. Upon reaching the right tributary of the Almaja River from Lake Almaja, the Srovė River’s course will bend to the left.
First overnight option
IF YOU WANT TO STAY OVERNIGHT AT THE ‘ALMAJO’ CAMPSITE, you need to paddle up the Almaja River into Lake Almajas. Turn right at the Almaja River’s course, paddling upstream directly into Lake Almajas. At the river’s mouth, you may feel its resistance, but once you enter the lake, you’ll relax. Paddle along the right shore of Lake Almajas, and as you row, you’ll pass a pointed peninsula and see the Almajo rest area.
You’ve completed half the route: Almajas campsite is your halfway point, where you can rest and dispose of the accumulated trash in local containers and set up camp.
AFTER STAYING OVERNIGHT AT THE ‘ALMAJO’ CAMPSITE:
Paddling from the campsite, keep to the left shoreline. At the outlet of Lake Almajas, paddling a short Almaja River, you’ll reach the confluence of rivers ahead – keep to the right side and paddle downstream – this will lead you into the Srovė River, whose channel will gradually curve to the left. After the river bend, you’ll pass the village of Ginučiai and the piers extending into the river, two road bridges. Passing the village, the river channel will be straighter, and after a few graceful turns, you’ll enter Lake Asėkas. In Lake Asėkas, keep to the right bank. After paddling more than half a kilometer, you’ll see the mouth of the Asėka River. This short, about 650 meters long, river connects the last Asėkas and Linkmenas lakes. Asėka has a wide bend, and the current here is very weak. Due to the abundant trees and grass vegetation on the riverbanks, moisture is retained, so beaver families breed in these areas. The Asėka River will carry you into Lake Linkmenas. Keep to the right shoreline on the lake.
Here you can choose several options: either continue the route without breaks or paddle to Papiliakalnė to look around from Ladakalnis.
If you want to visit Ladakalnis, you need to paddle to the opposite lake shore, deviating slightly to the right (on the map, Ladakalnis is marked with a red dot). Ladakalnis is a hill rising 176 m above sea level, from which you can count the lakes visible to the horizon. You’ll paddle about 1 km to Ladakalnis. However, you’ll forget about the distance when magnificent views open up before your eyes from the top of Ladakalnis: vast forest expanses, lakes hidden in the woods – Asėkas, Linkmenas, Alksnaitis, Alksnas, Ūkojas, and Pakasas will refresh your soul. Here you’ll gather strength for further travel through the lake-rich Aukštaitija.
After visiting Ladakalnis, paddle across Lake Linkmenas, keeping more to the right side. In the distance, you’ll see the Unkštis strait, connecting Linkmenas and Asalnykštis lakes.
If you haven’t visited Ladakalnis and have just arrived via the Asėka River, turn your canoes to the left and keep to the left shore. After about half a kilometer, you’ll reach the Unksties Strait, connecting Lake Linkmenas and Lake Asalnykštis.
Second overnight option
IF YOU CHOSE THE ‘LINKMENO’ REST AREA FURTHER AWAY
After the bend of the Srovė River to the left, you’ll pass the village of Ginuciai and the piers stretching into the river, two driveable bridges. As you pass the village, the river’s course will be straighter, and after navigating a few graceful turns, you’ll enter Lake Asėka. In Lake Asėka, keep to the right shore. After paddling more than half a kilometer, you’ll see the mouth of the Asėka River. This short, about 650 meters long river connects Lake Asėka and Lake Linkmenas. Asėka has a wide bend, and the current here is very weak. Due to the abundant vegetation of trees and grasses on the riverbanks, moisture is retained, and beaver families thrive in these areas.
The Asėka River will carry you to Lake Linkmenas. In the lake, keep to the right shoreline. Beyond the wide bay, you’ll find the Linkmeno campsite. Here you can settle in and gather strength for the next day’s journey.
If you want to visit Ladakalnis on the other side of Lake Linkmenas, do it in the morning – at sunrise. You need to paddle to the place marked on the map called Papiliakalnė. Ladakalnis is a hill rising 176 meters above sea level, from which lakes can be counted to the horizon. You’ll paddle about 1 km to Ladakalnis. However, you’ll forget about the distance when your eyes open to the majestic views from the top of Ladakalnis: vast forest expanses, lakes hidden in the woods – Asėkas, Linkmenas, Alksnaitis, Alksnas, Ūkojas, and Pakasas will refresh your soul. Here you’ll gather strength for the further journey through the lake-rich Aukštaitija.
If after visiting Ladakalnis, you immediately embark on a journey, paddle across Lake Linkmenas, keeping more to the right side. In the distance, you’ll see the Unksties Strait, connecting Lake Linkmenas and Lake Asalnykštis.
If you haven’t visited Ladakalnis and are moving from the Linkmeno campsite, keep to the left shore and paddle back from where you came yesterday. You need to pass the mouth of the Asėka River and continue keeping to the left shore. After about half a kilometer, you’ll reach the Unksties Strait, connecting Lake Linkmenas and Lake Asalnykštis.
Second day’s route
Lake Linkmenai – Lake Žeimenai (~16 km, ~5 hours) Paddling towards Šakarva
Entering the Unkštis strait, you’ll paddle a little over 1 kilometer, and halfway through the strait’s trajectory, you’ll pass under a wooden pile bridge. This bridge connects the Salų peninsula visible on your right with the age-old Linkmenai forest on the left.
The Salų peninsula is special because it houses two villages: Salos I and Salos II. Both are in a kind of peninsula, washed by the Asalnykštis, Linkmenas, Alksnas, and Alksnaitis lakes. The only road for the peninsula’s village residents to travel by land leads from the village of Antalksnė. The Salų villages stand out for their unique architecture and layout, so a cultural reserve has been established here. Unfortunately, only a house and a barn from the 19th century remain. Other buildings were built in the early 20th century.
The peninsula we’re talking about is on your right as you paddle. On the left is also a very interesting historical site – the Puziniškis hillfort, covered with pines and birches, against which the aforementioned wooden bridge leans. The steep, up to 20 meters high, slopes of the hillfort are surrounded by remnants of a defensive rampart from the west. Perhaps you’d like to visit here too?
While deciding whether to paddle further or climb the hillfort, look at the water lapping the strait’s banks: you’ll see green organisms attached to various places, resembling corals. These are freshwater sponges – Lake Sponges (Spongilla Lacustris). Lake sponges and corals are related fauna, classified as simple invertebrates.
The strait is only one kilometer long, but around it are full of natural wonders and ethnographic objects. After overcoming the Unkštis strait, you’ll paddle into Lake Asalnykštis.
When you enter Asalnykštis, don’t get lost – keep to the left shoreline, and as you paddle in the right direction, Gimžiškės Island will wave on your right. As you paddle, you’ll see a strait in the distance, which, after crossing, will lead you into Lake Asalnai. On the left side of the strait, you’ll see the village of Puziniškis. This area also has its interesting history: in 1919, when Poland occupied the Vilnius region, a demarcation line separating Lithuanian and Polish-occupied territories ran through this village. The village of Puziniškis is located on a hill, from which a stunning view of the Asalnai landscape reserve opens up. After crossing the strait dividing the lakes, you’ll enter Lake Asalnai.
On Lake Asalnai, paddle straight while keeping to the right shoreline. As you paddle in this direction, you’ll notice this part of the lake starts to narrow. When you reach the narrow part of the lake (like a sleeve), you’ll see the Dringykščia River channel (also known as Meira) on the left side. The river flows from Lake Dringykštis, and just beyond the river, the sun warms the roofs of the farming village of Meironys, which will accompany you until you enter Lake Lusiai.
There is an interesting tradition in the village of Meironys: during Pentecost, farmers decorate their cows with flower wreaths and float them to the opposite cape’s shore, which locals call Pabiržis. There, the cows are released to graze freely until autumn and are floated back during Michaelmas. Milkmaids row by boat every morning and evening to milk the cows and bring the warm milk home.
So, after passing the village of Meironys on the left and the Pabiržis cape on the right, you’ll enter Lake Lūšiai. If you want to visit the village of Palūšė, from this point, keeping to the left shoreline, paddle ~1.5 km to the eastern shore of Lake Lūšiai towards the village of Palūšė.
While paddling, you’ll see the Palūšė church with its bell tower, the village’s largest historical landmark – a wooden church with a bell tower, built in 1750! Climbing the stone-paved stairs, you’ll see that the church is well-restored and cozy. The church stands on a hill, offering a pleasant view of Lake Lūšiai. It is the oldest wooden church in Lithuania, once adorning the 1 Litas banknotes.
If you don’t visit the village of Palūšė, just after entering Lake Lūšiai, aim for the opposite shore, turning slightly to the right. You’ll need to paddle about 0.8 km across Lūšiai. Upon reaching the opposite shore of Lake Lūšiai, at the end of which you’ll see a channel turning to the right. Keeping to the shoreline, paddle through the channel until you reach Lake Šakarvai.
Šakarvai is one of the deeper lakes in the Aukštaitija National Park, with a maximum depth of 40 m. The average width of the lake is 0.35 km, and its length is 2.5 km. Paddle through Lake Šakarvai to the very end. You’ll notice a driveable bridge, under which flows the Šakarva stream, connecting Lake Šakarvai and Lake Žeimenys.
Žeimenys is the lake with the longest shoreline in the Aukštaitija National Park. The lake’s length is more than 10 km, width ~0.5 km, and depth ~24 m. Žeimenys surpasses other lakes in length but not in width, so while paddling through the bays of Žeimenys, you can feel the water flowing into the river. The lake’s shores resemble cliffs (up to 20 m above sea level). These are covered with pines, sandy. A large part of the shores is occupied by reed beds, embracing the islands standing here.
Besides the Šakarva stream, the Jaurupė stream flows into Lake Žeimenys in its western branch, and the Laukupė and Kretuona streams flow into its eastern part. Near Kaltanėnai, the Žeimena River flows out of the lake. There are 14 small islands in Lake Žeimenys. Around the lake are the villages of Bajorai, Ožkiniai, Antanavas, and the town of Kaltanėnai.
Paddling the main channel of the lake for about 4 km, on the left side, you’ll see a “T”-shaped pier. Beyond the pier, you’ll notice the Kretuona stream flowing out of Lake Kretuona. Lake Kretuona is the largest in the Aukštaitija National Park and has been declared an ornithological reserve due to its vast diversity of protected birds. Scientists have found remains of settlements from the IX millennium BC in Lake Kretuona.
If you walk 350 m from the shore of Lake Žeimenys, you’ll find the old Pakretuonės water mill, built next to the Kretuona stream. The mill boasts impressive cascades, under which it’s always fun to splash on a hot summer day! Currently, a recreation and wellness camp belonging to the Lithuanian National Martynas Mažvydas Library is set up here. Tourists are allowed into the area for a symbolic fee, so they can enjoy the water fun provided by the mill.
From the mouth of the Kretuona stream, after paddling about half a kilometer, you’ll find a campsite on the pine-covered shore where you can stay overnight.
Third day’s route
Lake Žeimenai – Švenčionėliai (~23 km, ~8 hours)
From the Pakretuonės campsite, after paddling ~4 km, mostly on the right side of Lake Žeimenys, you’ll see the town of Kaltanėnai. Paddling the winding and narrow Lake Žeimenys and keeping to the right shoreline, paddling towards Kaltanėnai, you’ll enter the Žeimena River!
From the town of Kaltanėnai, you’ll paddle under a bridge over the Žeimena River. The Žeimena flows through meadows where the linden trees of the Kaltanėnai manor park stand. The exit point is conveniently accessible by car, allowing for a winding, pleasant journey.
If you have time before the start, look around: in the panorama of Kaltanėnai, you’ll see the neo-Gothic style single-tower Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Angels, built of red clay bricks in 1909. The church was built over six years! If you have a few minutes, walk to the barns of Kaltanėnai manor. It’s a two-story folk classicism building constructed with wooden logs back in 1838.
Paddling downstream on Žeimena ~3 km from the start, on the left side, you’ll see the village of Šakališkės and the first right tributary of Žeimena – the Kiauna River.
After passing the tributary and rowing ~1.7 km, you’ll pass another small village – Naujoji Brasta. After ~3 km, you’ll find Lukna village, where the second right tributary of Žeimena – Luknelė flows. Although this river is short (~15 km), it’s very extreme: full of tree barriers, difficult to pass, so we don’t create routes on this river. After paddling ~5 km from the Luknelė tributary, on the right side of your paddling direction, you’ll see Jusiai village. Next to this village is the third right tributary of Žeimena – the Sirgėla River, with its mouth overgrown with reeds. This river is short, characterized by a weak current flowing from the Sirgelis lake.
At the mouth of the Sirgėla River, the territory of the Aukštaitija National Park ends, and the Žeimena ichthyological reserve begins. It extends to the confluence of the Žeimena and Neris rivers. The purpose of the ichthyological reserve is to protect spawning grounds for salmon, sea trout, and brown trout.
After paddling about 1 km from the mouth of the Sirgėla River and navigating two sharper bends of the Žeimena, you’ll pass the left tributary of the Žeimena—the short Šventelė River, which carries the waters of Lake Telio. Turn left into the Šventelė River to enter Lake Telio. In Lake Telio, keep to the right shoreline, and after paddling more than half of the lake’s shore, you’ll find a campsite beyond the peninsula.
Second day’s route
Telys – Žeimena (~14 km, 5 hours)
From the campsite at Lake Telio, return to the Šventelė River, keeping to the left shoreline. From the Šventelė River, you’ll soon enter the Žeimena. About 5 km from the confluence of the Šventelė and Žeimena, you’ll reach the banks of the town of Švenčionėliai.
Švenčionėliai were mentioned in written sources in the 17th century. at the end. In the northern part of the town, there was Juodiškis manor and a village around it during the Middle Ages. The town’s growth was spurred by the construction of the Saint Petersburg – Warsaw railway in 1862 and, of course, the railway station. A narrow-gauge railway from Panevėžys to Lentupis, reaching Adutiškis, was also built through the town. Unfortunately, the settlement, known for its railways, almost completely burned down in 1900. almost completely burned down. After quickly rebuilding it, industrial enterprises began to develop, and by 1907, a wooden church cross rose above the town’s roofs, and a school was established. The town’s expansion didn’t stop, so in 1920, Švenčionėliai received town rights. Four years later, a matchstick factory began operating. World War II caused significant damage to Švenčionėliai: over 200 buildings were destroyed, and in 1941, 8,000 people were shot in the forest across the Žeimena. However, Švenčionėliai is a constantly reborn town, so after the war, it was quickly rebuilt. In the town, you can buy food, medicine, books, and enjoy your time in cafes.
FINISH:
Disembark before the first bridge, locally known as Kirulis Bridge. In front of it, there’s a convenient sandy bathing area.
